Monday, September 25, 2006

Elephants

Our machetes continued to hack through the jungle in hopes to see the rare but beautiful Kerala elephant. The humidity was thick, and sweat pored out like a leaky faucet. My two guides Regi and Sajiv stopped for a moment. Regi held out his hand, and motioned for me to stay still. My breathing was heavy, and my body was tired, and I only hoped if a fierce jungle creature attacked that I would have the stamina to fight it off. Regi, the older guide, continued to listen to the jungle. Sajiv, the younger guide, decided to take a drink from the canteen. Regi gave Sajiv a stern look at first, but then smiled as this young pup was unable to keep up with the older veteran. Once I sensed Regi was satisfied we were not about to be attacked, I asked about the animal noises and cries that he heard. Regi only looked at Sajiv gravely, and while Sajiv looked down somberly screwing the cap back on the canteen, Regi whispered, "It's best if you don't know."


With a sense of foreboding and emanate doom in my heart and soul, we pressed on through the jungle hacking our way into some unknown oblivion. The hours passed, and complete exhaustion set in. I could tell even Regi was getting fatigued, and  we would have to camp for the night only to be ravaged by an infinite number of crawling or flying bugs that easy devoured through human tissue. At that moment, I thought about ending my life as the dead feel no pain. My moment of ultimate despair was short lived as we heard the rustling of trees. Only a truly large beast could make the trees move from their ancient roots. The three of us looked at each other, the exhaustion dissipated into the energy of terror and curiosity. Rather than running, we moved toward the sound as any foolish mortal would.


After a few minutes, the jungle opened up inviting us into it's darky depths. The trees were gigantic with a thick canopy that deflected all sunlight. The number of sounds increased, there were grunts, snorts and the occasional bellow. I could sense the anticipation. The Kerala elephant was near. Only a few more moments, and I would see what many will never see.  A sight so grand and spectacular, each second of visage would be remembered forever. We moved forward, and the canopy magically gave way to the sunlight, and with another few paces we were in a clearing and there before us was an entire heard of Kerala Elephants. My joy would never reach such heights, and yet something was wrong. There were other creatures that stirred around the massive beast. I edged further into the clearing in hopes to get a closer look of the spectacle. Regi and Sajiv pleaded for me to stay under cover, but I had to see the spectacle up close. I had to see the glory and beauty...wait...that creature stirring around the elephant...it's not an ordinary creature...my joy turned to complete disappointement as the grandeur of these incredible beasts were was thwarted by the trainer that led them around like a pet dog trained to obey its master. I looked back at Regi and Sajiv. They only smiled. Apparently, I had just bought the Brooklyn Bridge along with a pass to the Elephant Sanctuary (Punnathur kotta) near the Guruvayur Temple. I decided to make the best of things, and take some pics of these great beasts.

 

 

As we continued to walk around the Elephant Sanctuary, we passed the god being worshipped at the temple. The god didn't say much, but if you look deep into it's eyes, you would swear it's eyes were following you around...very spooky.


 

The trainers have very close relationships with with their animals. It takes about 3 trainers per elephant. As you can see, the trainers are very comfortable around their elephant. This trainer appears to be doing a foot massage as the elephant appears very relaxed with a satisfied grin.


 

When Regi and Sajiv told the trainers about tricking me into 3 hours of machete swinging just to see a park full of Elephants, the trainers told their elephant companions, and the elephants didn't hold back their sense of humor when I was around. They could not stop laughing.


 

The trainers also teach the elephants different dances for ceremonial events. This elephant is showing much agility and balance doing a dance move even Brittney Spears would envy.


 

After, 3 hours being in a hot humid jungle swinging a machete, this guy asked if I was next in line for a bath.


 

Some elephants prefer showers over baths.


 

I did managed to get Regi and Sajiv close enough to an elephant to get my revenge though. One of the trainers said this elephant was a man eater. Once again, the joke was on me, and I was 100 rupees poorer.


 

One special surprise is that there was a temple feeding being held where most of the elephants are paraded around the central square to please the gods. If a patron at the temple pays 6,000 rupees, a special feeding will take place where the elephants get special treats, and the temple gets the money. I guess the patron gets the satisfaction that someone other than himself was pleased.


 

The special treat consists of one bunch of bananas of  about 20 bananas, which is one mouthful. After the sweet treat, the trainer creates a large ball of rice from a large bucket of rice, and drops the large morsel into the elephants large mouth. I noticed that being around elephants everything seems to be large.

The largest elephant, almost 11 feet tall,  was in a special location in the square and it was fed first. I tried to get it's attention by acting like a ripe banana, but a trainer came up to me and asked if I had insurance coverage. So, I took this picture instead.


 

While the feeding ceremony was talking place, a stealthy elephant sneaked up behind me. I think it wanted to scare me to make all the other elephants laugh at me some more, but it got distracted by the large ball of rice.


 

The trainers said that each elephant has it's own personality, and there are attacks on trainers from time to time.  One trainer is still in the hospital after tusk wounds to both shoulders. But the trainers love their work, and the elephant becomes a family member over time. A few scientist come to the sanctuary to write books on the relationship between trainers and elephants. There are over 60 elephants in the sanctuary, and most of them are bulls as they are used for ceremonies. The trainers told us that the Kerala Elephant is the most desired looking elephant in the world. It has a broad face, arched back, long trunk and thick tusks. They are truly spectacular.

 

To find out more. Here is a good link:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guruvayoor

Monday, September 18, 2006

The HouseBoat

In previous posts, I had pictures of house boats that travel around in the Kerala backwater areas. The folks at G.O.C. hooked me up with an overnight stay on a house boat. Before going on the boat, I met Kumar of G.O.C and I had a traditional Kerala lunch off the banana leaf for his house warming. Kumar has built a house for home stays, and he was showing me around the place along with dozens of other people who were invited. After lunch, I was dropped off at the house boat.

 

This house boat consists of the kitchen area in the back, a single bedroom with bath and shower, the living room area, and the wheel house area where the driver sits. There are 3 people who run the boat - the mechanic, the driver and the waiter\cook. As we started to depart, I was served fresh pineapple, and we turned on some traditional Kerala music.

 

 

We traveled around for hours looking at the sights. It was very relaxing. I sat on a cushion next to the driver to be right next to the water. Here is a pic of the driver doing what he does most of the day, and the tool of his trade:

 

We saw a number of old and new temples:

 

There were a lot of churches.

 

Later in the afternoon, we stopped by a Ayurvedic Rejuvanation Therapy "with holisic touch" massage clinic. A doctor took my blood pressure, and asked if I had any ailments or problems with muscles or joints. I was then taken into a small hut in the back where I was introduced to the masseuse, and he said he was going to use natural herbal oils that would be good for a healthy mind and body. I guess a person can never be too healthy, but I never knew cracking\popping a toe was considered healthy until this experience.

 

Here is a good link to learn more about how to properly season skin before baking:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ayurvedic

 

We continued to travel around the backwater. With all the scented oils and herbs, the guys on the boat probably though I smelled like a Ceaser Salad. It's a good thing they were not cannibals. The sign below shows how far to the farthest police station in case I needed one - 83 km to Kollam.

As night started, we ported near a place where the guys lived, and I they served chicken curry which was really good. The waiter\cook and I talked a while until I realized he had to get up at 5:00am, and we decided to call it a night and go to bed. He stayed on the boat in the living room as security...more for the boats security rather than mine. I'm sure the boat was worth a lot more than I was worth.

 

The morning turned out great. There were blue skys, and it was a great day for being in a house boat on the Kerala backwaters.

 

The rice fields were very green, and the day was tranquil.

 

As the day closed to an end. I was glad I spend the night on the backwater instead of just a few hours. The entire experience is needed to feel fully relaxed and give you the incentive to never work again...

Sunday, September 10, 2006

The Wedding

I had the honor of being invited to the wedding of Princy and Joicy by Jobi Joy who is one of my co-workers. Princy is Jobi's sister.

Click on the image below to get a detailed pic of the invite:

 

There are 3 parts to the wedding. The engagement ceremony, the wedding ceremony, and the reception. This was an arranged marriage which is normal in this part of the world, and it includes things like dowry's and  matching couples by religion, by status, by education, and etc... I asked a lot of "what if..." type questions, but I'm not going to explore the answers here...it's way to complicated.

The engagement ceremony is held at the brides church. If the bride is from a small village, invitations are given to everyone in the village from the family of the bride. The invitations must be delivered in person. This means the excuse, "Your invitation must have gotten lost in the mail." no longer works. Like any small towns, anywhere in the world,  where everyone knows everybody, not inviting someone means you must not like them. The opposite side is that if you are invited, you better have a really good excuse why you can't make at least the reception. Some excuses not to use are, "My cousins brothers dog died.", "My favorite television show is on during that time.", or "I really didn't like the food at your last wedding."

Here is the engagement reception area with a family pic:

 

I found it interesting that lots of people attended the engagement reception and the wedding reception, but there were a lot less people at the ceremonies. This may have something to do with the free food given out at receptions.

 

This is a traditional style meal on a banana leaf...I like to call it "The banana leaf buffet".

 

The Wedding happened a week after the engagement ceremony. The benefit of an arranged marriage is that there isn't enough time between the engagement and the wedding for the bride or groom to call it off. Other parents who have had to spend money during a 6 -12month engagements, only to have the wedding called off, probably are thinking this arranged marriage isn't such a bad thing. I will
mention that shotgun weddings are also good for a parents pocket book due to a high level of certainty.

 

The wedding ceremony was maybe 2 hours. This could be another reason there are not as many people at the wedding ceremony. It was long, but it was also nice, and you really got the feeling that something important and spiritual was happening.



 

Once the ceremony was completed, it was time for the other family members to show their support.


 

Her e is a nice shot of the new couple outside the church.


 

After a two hour ceremony if hymns and
exaltations, people were getting hungry. The reception was at another church.

 

It seems there should be a rule that anyone who goes to the wedding should be the first to get fed, but that didn't seem to be the case, as there were a number of people there when I arrived. I think free food brings out the worst in all of us.

 

There were two waves of people, and each filled the entire reception area...hundreds of people...maybe up to 1,000 people. I wondered how many people were coming off the street for a fee meal.

The reception area for the bride and groom was very nice. They were King and Queen for a day.

 

They lit a lamp together. I was told the significance of this, but I have forgotten. This is what the comments section is for by the way.

 

Then they did a traditional cutting of the cake.

 

Here are the family members getting into the picture - pardon the pun.


 

Now the Wedding ceremony may have been over 2 hours long, but that doesn't mean you have to sit through it to get an idea of what it was like. Here is a quick video to show you what was happening.

Wedding Video

 

It was a great experience, and I would like to thank Jobi for inviting to all the events. I had a great time, and I did see most of my co-workers, mostly at the free food events, but we all wish the new couple happiness and harmony in their new lives together.

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Happy Onam

If someone said, "Happy Onam." to you. Would you know what they were talking about? If the answer is "no", read on...

Onam is a special time of the year in Kerala, and it's a mix of Thanksgiving and Christmas. Onam is similar to Thanksgiving because it is about celebrating and embracing all cultures and all peoples. Onam is similar to Christmas because it is about buying things on sale and giving the cheaper item to a friend. There are also lots of lights hanging from buildings which creates a festive mood in the city...with the end goal of making you buy something.

Onam is a 10 day event, and there are many events happening all over the state of Kerala. One Onam tradition is the flower mat or Pookalam. The design of the floor mat starts on day one, and continues until the tenth and final day.

This is the Pookalam at the Riverdale.


 

This is the Pookalam at InfoPark (thanks for the picture Vijay, but is India time really 6 months in the past?  Maybe this is why people drive in such a hurry, they are all very late to work).


 

Learn more about Pookalam here:

http://www.onamfestival.org/pookalam.html

 

Another part to the Onam festival is Onasadya which in English means "mini buffet on a banana leaf". There is an intricate ritual around how the food is served, but most people don't follow this anymore. I'm saving my Onasadya photo for another blog post, but here is another pic to wet your appetite.

 

Liby asked me to visit her family for a Onasadya lunch, and I happily accepted the invitation. I never turn down a free lunch, and a lot of other people in India don't turn down free lunches either, but that's another blog post...

Here is what she served on the banana leaf:

  • Rice - Kerala style
  • Sambhar
  • Dal
  • Ghee
  • Pavaka thiyal- Bitter gourd cooked with fried coconut
  • Ully thiyal- Small onion cooked with coconut
  • Aviyal- Vegetables cooked in curd and coconut
  • Pachadi- Raw mango with curd and mustard
  • Inji curry- Ginger fried and cooked
  • Mooru kachiyathu- curried curd
  • Papadam
  • Banana chips
  • Sharkara varati- raw banana dipped in jaggary
  • Banana
  • Paal Payasam- sweet milk porridge

Liby said all  the meals were made from scratch except the Payasam. That is a lot of work in the kitchen, and a lot of preperation time during the morning. It was really a privilege to eat such an authentic Onam meal...many thanks Liby.

Onam is a very elaborate festival, and it's on par with Christmas as everyone greets you with "Happy Onam". There are a few stories behind the origination of Onam, but the best description I found is here:

http://www.onamfestival.org/the-legend-of-king-mahabali.html

In Kochi, there
are musical performances by popular artists, dance recital's, the Malayalam playback singers, Karakattam at the main venue, recital's of Mohiniyattam, dance performances, concerts, fusion music, Kaaralsman Charitham, Music Nite, Kavadi and singarimelam, it goes on and on. Now multiply that times other cities throughout the state of Kerala.

Here is a lyric to an Onam song:

When Mahabali ruled the land
Everyone was equal
Happily they lived
Danger befell none
There was no falsehood, or fraud
And no untruth.'
 

Here are some other links to look at.:

http://www.onamfestival.org/

http://www.onamfestival.org/what-is-onam.html

http://www.onamfestival.org/legends-of-onam.html

http://www.onamfestival.org/king-mahabali-onam.html

http://www.indiangiftsportal.com/india-shopping/occasions/onam/mithais/

 

Happy Onam everyone.

Sunday, September 03, 2006

Rubber Trees

Savi, Franklin, Vijay and I, visited Jobi's house where he is growing rubber tree plants. Jobi said he had about 100 trees. It seems most people in rural areas are growing rubber trees because the return on investment is higher than other products.

Here is the area around Jobi's house.

 

Rubber trees are everywhere. Including other peoples property.

 

There was a great sound coming from some insects that live in the trees. I was told they were something like a cricket.

Click here to listen to the sounds in the rubber tree plantation.

 

There are not just Rubber trees planted in the area, but pineapple also.

 

It was a great day, and we hand some nice scenery as Jobi's place was toward the rural hilly areas, and there is a lot of farming going on. Here is a large rice field we passed.

 

We did some other things on this trip like visit the Hill Palace which I blogged about earlier, and we also went to Jobi's sister engagement party which I will blog about in coming posts.

The drive back was interesting, and I tried to get some video of it. You will notice we are on a motorcycle. If you exclude transportation vehicles, I think 75% of the transportation is via motorcyle.

Click here to view the video going home.

 

Click here to see all the pics.

 

Links on Rubber Trees:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubber_tree

http://www.jplatex.com/concept.htm

http://www.dfsc.dk/Extensionstudy/EXT-1112.htm

http://www.fao.org/DOCREP/006/AD221E/AD221E00.HTM